Trekking in the Andes

Huaraz... a cruel reminder how affected I am by altitude. The first month and a half of my trip was spent on the altiplano, at an elevation of 2500m and above. After a month on the beach, I had lost all affinity for altitude. I arrived in Huaraz at 7:00am at 3000+m elevation from the beach wearing sandals and a tank top. Cold! I booked a four day trek for the following morning and spent the day trying to acclimatize. Not eating much, sleeping, enjoying a dull throb in my head, and panting at the top of every staircase. We left for the trek at 6am the following morning, and after a 4 hour drive up tiny twisting mountain roads, clearing the way of rocks from a recent land slide, we began the hike. The first day was pretty easy, we hiked for about 5 hours and arrived at the campsite around 4pm. Then we waited in the rain for the donkeys to arrive with the tents and food. That was one of the most uncomfortable hours Ive spent in a while, and that post hike chill was hard to shake. The first night was cold. Very very cold. During the hikes I was feeling fine, great, even. However at camp when the endorphins had worn off the altitude hit and I felt terrible. I didnt have more than a cup of tea for dinner either of the nights, and spent the majority of the time curled up in my tent.

The beginning of the second day we all lined up to have our waterbottles filled. When we asked where the water was the guide replied that they had thrown it out, since no one had asked last night to have water boiled for drinking. What!! So we set off, with no water (some people still had a teeny bit left from the first day), for a 7 hour hike. After hiking the morning on three stolen sips of water from a friends water bottle, I gave in and filled my camelback with stream water. I still didnt drink much of it, because when choosing between dehydration and the possibility of giardia from something weird in the water, I chose dehydration. However, the afternoon of the second day was the highest point on the trek, a pass at 4750m. It was completely foggy up there, and snowing. Another girl and I were struggling pretty hard with the altitude, so we summited (slowly) together. I felt REALLY bad the second night, still being non-aclimatized to the altitude on top of the pretty severe dehydration. There was one girl who had signed up to do the four day trek in three days, combining the last two easy days into one 8 hour hike. After the first two days in camp, over half the group decided to do the three day trek, myself included. After two nights of altitude sickness, I wanted nothing else than to get off the mountain. We set off at 630am the next morning (I made sure to ask for water this time) at a brisk pace. I hiked with a kiwi friend named Gina, and for the most part we were in the lead of the group. We finished the 8 hour hike in 6 hours, enjoying the absolutely beautiful weather we had the last day (nice switch from the mist and snow). The pizza and pisco sours (and hot showers!!) that we rewarded ourselves with that night hit the spot like nothing can, unless youve just spent a few days in the sticks, camping in the rain.

In exchange for the day spent not trekking, the company threw in some "free" rock climbing for Gina and I. The first two walls were very easy, so by the time that we got to the third wall (which was very not as easy), I was definitely feeling it in my arms, and my legs from the hiking. It was good fun, though. They caught me cheating in the picture, using the clip on the wall as a foothold. I was just resting, though, I swear!

Now Im in Lima, hanging out here until I fly to BA, Argentina tomorrow. So far as I know, this will be the last time Im in Peru this trip...but the way this trip has been going, I wont be too surprised if at some point in the next few months I find myself back in Lima.